In terms of geography, Kashmir is simply a mountainous territory at the intersection of India, Pakistan, and China. In terms of politics, the name itself often ignites passionate debate fueled by mutually incompatible versions of history. Since 1947 and the partition of British India into a pair of new states, the area has been divided across a contested border. The question of who said what, or what was signed when, is in many ways irrelevant. What does matter is that the Muslim population of Kashmir is a distinct ethnolinguistic group situated across a deep social divide from the rest of India. What also matters is that the territory’s own aspirations to independence – sought in the 1990’s by mujihadeen fighters backed by Pakistan, and today by Kashmiri politicians - were suppressed by de facto martial law. Security in Kashmir is essentially in the hands of the military rather than a civic police force, a scenario brought about in 1990 by India’s Armed Forces Special Powers Act. The images presented here are of daily life in Srinagar, the largest city in Kashmir. All were taken by the author in 2005.